Review: Madeira’s grande dame Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel

The facts: Having opened in 1891, Reid’s Palace is steeped in history. The property was founded by Scotsman and entrepreneur William Reid, whose dream was to build Madeira’s first luxury hotel. He sadly died before its completion, but his sons continued his legacy, keeping Reid’s in the family until 1925. Over the years, royals, politicians and silver-screen icons have given the hotel its legendary status, one that endures under Belmond. Since acquiring the property in 1996, the brand has invested millions in renovations yet remains devoted to preserving its architecture and timeless charm. Every corner is so distinctive that, despite the resort’s size, I soon get my bearings, retracing my steps past elaborate frescoes, Romanesque marble pillars and walls with black-and-white photos of Reid’s glamorous heyday. The 126 rooms and suites also nod to a bygone era, romantically dressed in delicate florals, powder-blue upholstery and antique furniture. Our Superior Suite overlooks fresh and saltwater pools, framed by a manicured lawn and Pool Terrace eatery. Beyond this plateau lies my favourite spot to laze: a craggy cliff edge home to sunloungers, a tidal pool and diving boards over the ocean. Belmond’s latest updates have introduced new dining venues, including seasonal alfresco restaurant Brisa do Mar and ice-cream shop Gelateria San Giorgio. The Tea Library also opened this year, offering baked treats and fragrant blends, alongside 1891 Bar, serving snacks and botanical cocktails. Long-standing favourites remain: Italian venue Ristorante Villa Cipriani and Michelin-starred William. Beyond the dining scene, the spa promises indulgent pampering, and the fitness centre, tennis courts and complimentary daily activities such as Pilates and kayaking will keep guests entertained. There’s also a kids’ club for three to nine-year-olds. 

Ideal for: Loved-up couples, young families and Belmond devotees yet to tick off this celebrated property.

Explore: Madeira’s wild, vertiginous landscapes abound with soul-stirring vistas. One morning, we wake early to embark on a Sunrise Above the Clouds experience at Pico do Arieiro, the island’s third-highest peak, to watch the sun crest above a billowing sea of clouds. Guests can choose from a plethora of activities: full-day boat trips across waters rich with seals, dolphins and even whales; rattling Jeep tours along picturesque trails; and authentic cooking classes.

Wow: A seat at William is a must. Helmed by 28-year-old chef José Diogo Costa, the venue offers two tasting menus, where seasonal, local produce takes centre stage. There’s a zero-waste ethos, and all ingredients are used in deliciously creative ways to craft dishes such as lobster in a rich bisque and pork shoulder with tart blackberry purée.

Book it: One night’s B&B in a Superior Suite starts from €1,400.
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