Tickled Pink: Why far-flung Bermuda should be your clients’ next island escape
We’ve been told to meet early in the morning for a soothing yoga class – an instruction that immediately conjures images of an oceanfront stretching session, soft sand between my toes and waves rhythmically lapping in the distance.
It turns out, however, that our instructor and yoga guru Jasmine isn’t waiting for us on the beach – instead, we’re ushered down a small set of stairs into an underground cave, something that doesn’t instantly scream Zen. But I’m pleased to discover that my initial impressions are wrong – what greets us isn’t a dingy alcove, but a fantastical grotto.
Spectacular stalactites are suspended like icicles from the sandstone-coloured ceiling, which swoops dramatically downwards to give way to a pool of azure water so glassy it reflects the intricate limestone formations etched into the rockface above. Poised atop the lake as if resting on its surface is a wooden platform laid out with yoga mats and towels, setting the scene for a workout so peaceful it feels genuinely restorative, and marks the start of a week in Bermuda that, much like the cave I spend my first morning in, is full of surprises.
Historical heart
Less than imposing in size, Bermuda clocks in at just 21 square miles. Scattered across the North Atlantic, the archipelago’s main island and accompanying chain of islets sit more than 600 miles away from its closest neighbour, the US – defying the common misconception that this is a Caribbean destination and instead setting the scene for its own unmistakable spirit and identity.
Much of this British Overseas Territory’s bountiful history is rooted in St George’s, the former capital and a Unesco World Heritage Site with centuries of stories woven into its streets. The town was founded in 1612, and wandering the cobbled lanes that criss-cross between the harbour, ornate 17th-century churches and rows of pastel-toned houses is like journeying back through time.
We explore St George’s with entrepreneur Kristin White, who operates walking and cycling tours from her gift-shop-turned-community-hub Long Story Short. She recalls tales of people who helped St George’s evolve into the lively, charming locale it is today – from the naval captain known as the founder of the island, Sir George Somers, whose ship capsized here in 1609, to Joseph Rainey, the first black person to serve in the US House of Representatives who set up a barber’s shop here in 1862. She also shares her quirky theories about some of the town’s unsolved mysteries, including the identity of remains found beneath the floorboards of St Peter’s Church, painting a scene so vivid I can picture the people who walked these streets long before me.
Sea the sights
Journeying away from St George’s on the northeastern tip of Bermuda’s largest isle down to its Main Island peninsula that juts out into the aquamarine waters of the western Atlantic, we come to Hamilton, St George’s successor as the archipelago’s capital and its undeniable beating heart.
A string of buildings clad in striking tones of pink, blue and yellow line the shore, with cosy coffee shops and stylish boutiques looking out across the harbour. While St George’s is the country’s historic hotspot, Hamilton takes the title of its spirited, cosmopolitan sibling and is home to a bounty of bars, galleries and restaurants – as well as the headquarters of many local and international businesses.
Hamilton and St George’s may be the busiest spots on the island, but Bermuda shares the love among all its towns, with much to explore away from its lively hubs. From our hotel, Grotto Bay Beach Resort & Spa on the northeastern Bailey’s Bay beach, we stroll to the Crystal and Fantasy Caves to witness the effects of millions of years of erosion that have given way to arresting limestone formations more than 60 metres below the ground.
From the caves’ lagoons to the vast pockets of ocean that fringe the coastline, crystalline waters aren’t in short supply in Bermuda. Horseshoe Bay is one of the country’s most-frequented beaches, and for good reason – its shoreline swoops in a dramatic crescent of sand softly tinged pink, invoking one of the picture-postcard vistas that have become synonymous with the destination.
Five-star finery
Greenery-shrouded boltholes, sprawling estates and palatial resorts – Bermuda’s roster of high-end hotels covers all bases, and a raft of improvements is taking place across the archipelago as the tourist board seeks to boost its status as a premier destination.
At Rosedon Hotel, a 39-room hideaway situated just a short walk from Hamilton, a £2.4 million project of upgrades was completed last year to position the property as Bermuda’s leading small luxury hotel. Its unassuming exterior is charming: green-and-white-striped canopies cocoon the main entrance and four archways that stud the front of the white-washed former mansion, with swathes of palms on either side of the building giving way to a tranquil pool area lined with pale-pink loungers.
Inside, this stylish hotel nods to its rich heritage (the building has stood in the same spot since 1906), with traditional Bermudian design touches such as pastel-hued walls, antique wooden furniture and elegant swooping staircases.
While Rosedon is boutique personified, Rosewood Bermuda is a sprawling oasis of lush greenery, where 240 acres of pristinely kept gardens house 88 rooms and suites, four pools, a tennis court and golf course. The refined elegance of this chic property is evident from the moment I step foot onto the spotlessly shiny marble floor of the lobby – but it faces tough competition for the title of Bermuda’s most esteemed address.
Regal splendour
A short drive away is Hamilton Princess, a hotel whose name may give an impression of stuffiness but, as my visit confirms, actually is fit for royalty. This grande dame has a very special calling card hidden behind its unmistakable pink facade – its bar and restaurant Intrepid. The dinner we enjoy here is one of indulgence. Dishes of creamy gnocchi are tasted, rolls of expertly crafted sushi are sampled and crispglasses of wine are quaffed, but what really puts the cherry on the cake (dessert is great, too) is the faultless service we are treated to from every member of staff we encounter.
For our final hurrah on our last night in Bermuda, our taste buds are given the ultimate treat – dinner at five-star hotel The Loren at Pink Beach to mark the return of its Guest Chef Series. The evening sees two acclaimed chefs who work across the group’s properties in Bermuda and Texas cook together for the first time, delivering a culinary concoction of dishes that blend flavours from the two destinations. As the evening concludes, we share a toast – not just to a delicious meal, but to a week spent exploring an archipelago that abounds with soul.
Book it
Elegant Resorts offers seven nights in a Superior Room at Rosewood Bermuda for £3,195 per person. The price includes return flights from Heathrow, private transfers and UK lounge access.
ELEGANTRESORTS.CO.UK
Setting sail
Hamilton harbour sparkles in the midday sun. As the rays glint and glisten against the water, an impressive cluster of yachts bob in their moorings, but one vessel takes the spotlight: Zara, the 23-metre catamaran operated by Bermuda Yachts that can carry up to 75 passengers and on which a sailing is an unmissable addition to any Bermuda itinerary. Clients can hop on board for sunset tours, swimming cruises, at-sea cocktail parties or, for smaller groups, even sit-down meals on the deck for a dinner under the stars. After setting sail from Hamilton, our voyage takes us alongside verdant peninsulas, past tucked-away mansions and into quiet coves for swimming and paddleboarding, before the unmistakable aroma of a barbecue draws us back on board and we enjoy plates of grilled goodies and glasses of chilled rosé. Snorkel gear and water toys are provided for aquatic adventures or, for a more leisurely sojourn, guests can sit back on one of the many loungers, sofas and beanbags and simply soak up the Bermudian sun. This is sailing in style personified.
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