The British Virgin Islands offer a private paradise like no other

Lavish lodgings

The Point estate – my home on Moskito and our champagne-supping spot – is on the island’s southern side. Its cluster of thatch-roofed buildings appear to cascade down the hillside, connected by winding clay paths and encased by a crescent-shaped infinity pool. There’s room for 16 guests across eight suites, plus a dedicated bunk room that can accommodate eight more. A communal space – the Great House – opens out on three sides to reveal the patio, bringing the pool, floating loungers, hot tub and swim-up bar within a few steps’ reach. The Point’s design is minimalist – all sand-coloured tones, clean decor and wooden accents – but doesn’t fail to take my breath away upon arrival.

I explore the grounds like an over-excited child and quickly declare my love for the estate – little do I know, it faces some tough competition for the title of my favourite on the island. The Oasis, perched atop Moskito’s tallest peak, belongs in the scenes of a glamorous action movie. Its sleek, superyacht-inspired design is centred almost entirely around glass, with the main four-storey space and crop of poolside pods boasting floor-to-ceiling windows and 360-degree views across the island and beyond. Over on Moskito’s northern cliff, Cape Stout bills itself as an active guest’s dream, home to its own basketball court, gym and 13-metre powerboat. Our visit to this estate may not entail watersports or workouts, but is no less exciting thanks to the mouth-watering three-course dinner we’re treated to and the saxophonist who provides the soundtrack for our feast (and ensuing party) while perched on the wooden beams that tower overhead.

The fun-loving Moskito team sends us off in style on our final night with an extravagant celebration at The Village estate. Treehouse-style suites, a two-tiered infinity pool complete with sunken fire pit, and a waterslide that plunges into a grotto-style lagoon only scratch the surface of what this party pad is all about. The pièce de résistance is revealed after dinner when we’re ushered onto the poolside patio, where a DJ booth clad in neon lights rises as if by magic from below the ground. This is island living taken to a whole new level. Much like the difficulty I face when picking my favourite Moskito estate, the second half of our trip poses me an equally troubling dilemma: which is my favourite island? The BVI comprises 60 islands and cays, each personified by glorious greenery and immaculate beaches – and with such a diverse array of idyllic isles, it would be rude not to sample the island-hopping lifestyle.

Setting sail

So when it comes time to leave Moskito behind, the disappointment I feel is softened slightly by what’s lined up next – an adventure at sea with all-inclusive yacht charter company Dream Caribbean Blue. With cosy decor and homely touches, Sun Daze, our five-cabin catamaran, is every inch the ideal floating home-from-home. We’re looked after by the ship’s captain Tiago and onboard chef Kiki, who work in harmony to not only ensure seamless sailing but also to tend to anything else we may need. Craving an Aperol spritz to enjoy on the top deck? No problem. Fancy a snorkelling stop before dinner? Sure thing. Want to venture out on one of the yacht’s paddleboards? Of course. Kiki’s culinary concoctions are some of the best things I treat my taste buds to throughout the whole trip, which is no mean feat when you consider the boat’s small kitchen.

Waking up to banana pancakes with salted caramel sauce, climbing back on board after a swimming stop to be greeted with spiced corn tacos, and indulging in wood-fired margheritas straight from the pizza oven – these are just a few of the delicious highlights that make our sailing even more special. Aside from satisfying my stomach, my time on board Sun Daze satisfies my hunger to see as much of the BVI as possible. Our first port of call brings us to The Baths National Park, a BVI institution. On the southwestern coast of Virgin Gorda, pristine sands are studded with mammoth granite boulders, forming otherworldly grottos and tidal pools. We scramble up rocks and traverse rickety makeshift paths to explore the playground the stones have created, paddling in light-dappled rock pools and exploring secret caves along the way. We’re eventually deposited onto a secluded, unspoiled pocket of sand, where a dip in the shallow waves feels restorative after our exploration efforts.

Vibrant isle

The peaceful shores of Virgin Gorda contrast perfectly with the lively atmosphere of Jost Van Dyke, which, although the smallest of the archipelago’s main isles, certainly packs a punch. While the island is known for its immaculate, bar-studded White Bay beach, we opt to explore a little further with a quad bike tour hosted by Salt Life Adventure Sports, where we tentatively tackle rocky uphill paths and joyfully whizz down snaking roads, looking out across the ocean, which sparkles in the midday sun. We make a pitstop at the deserted Sidney’s Peace & Love honesty bar, where we follow handwritten instructions that tell us which fridge the rum-fuelled Painkiller mix is kept in and where the box to leave our payment is located. With our cocktails in hand, we deposit a handful of dollar bills and I add my name to the collection of past visitors recorded in the logbook. I take one last look around the rustic bar, pleased to have left my mark, no matter how small, on the destination I’ve fallen in love with. And there’s no doubt the BVI has left its mark on me. Far more than a simple spot to soak up the sun, this country showcases everything that makes the Caribbean wonderful: heartfelt generosity, standout service and veritable tranquillity.

Book it: All-inclusive stays on Moskito start at $25,000 per night per estate in the high season (November-April) when booking at least five suites. Seven-night all-inclusive sailings on Sun Daze start from $32,500 in summer 2025, based on eight guests in four cabins.
moskito.com 
dreamcaribbeanblue.com

Watering holes

Sun-soaked beaches and clear blue skies are just a few of the things that have long been associated with the British Virgin Islands. But this destination has another draw that shouldn’t be overlooked: its collection of legendary drinking spots. Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda is rich in nautical history and, as its name suggests, attracts catamarans and superyachts in their droves. The perfect spot for watching as the vessels come and go is the boat-turned-bar Reef Sampler, built from a repurposed hull salvaged from the shallows following hurricane Irma. Over on Jost Van Dyke, there are two unmissable beachfront bars. Soggy Dollar Bar (pictured) is the birthplace of the legendary Painkiller, a concoction so irresistible sailors would swim in from their boats’ moorings with dollar bills tucked into their swimsuits just to quench their thirst for the cocktail – a tradition that eventually gave the bar its name. A little farther along the coastline sits Foxy’s, a laid-back spot that’s been serving a rainbow of rum-laced drinks for more than 50 years.